Had a good look at this and I will applaud one thing from the beginning: it was a look book in the most basic sense of the word. There were no ridiculous poses to block the view, and the simplicity of it let the clothes take precedence.
The inspiration for the collection really comes through, almost to the point of looking like a pre-colonial era appropriate replica. The jackets, buttoned up shirts, muted colours and neutrals really give a sense of something military-era, which is further emphasized by the models’ stance and disposition. However, unlike the actual military, things are a lot more streamlined and fitted, which makes the collection attuned to recent trends. I can see a lot of uses for those jackets, whether dressed up or dressed down, and those button-up shirts are austere enough for office wear, yet not so boring that they can’t be fashion statements of their own accord.
The outfits with plaid fabric and shorts broke away from the “new-age Lord Lugard” feel of it and gave a more contemporary and street savvy edge, while the collarless tops looked a lot less serious and seemed to pay homage to African clothing while still maintaining the tone of the rest of the collection with the use of buttons and pocket details.
The first point of “no” was with the sandals. I didn’t see how they worked – both with the theme and the collection. The gladiator sandals simply did not amalgamate with a colonial-era inspired collection. Sandals of another sort (like the low, dark leather buckled ones we actually make traditionally) would have worked a lot better. Thankfully, they weren’t enough to really distract me from the clothes.
The skinny trousers. No. Yes, the collection is supposed to be streamlined, but there is something about attempting to make skinny trousers out of non-stretch fabric that simply doesn’t work. The subtle anatomical curves of the human leg would pull and bunch it in different places. An inch or so of allowance would have kept them looking tailored without the sausage-casing appearance.
Also, the fabric mixtures. Yes, the plaid and the creamy fabric are both neutrals, but putting them together (as on some of the collarless outfits and that jacket with the mandarin collar) doesn’t work. Maybe it’s just personal tastes, but I don’t think gray-scale and brown-scale things should ever be on the same outfit, never mind sewn together. Gray-scale and colour, yes. Brown-scale and warm/earthy colours, yes. Grey and brown, no.
That waistcoat with the rounded neckline. No. The curve is effeminate. A more angular neckline would have been in keeping with the theme.
As a whole, the collection works. It’s well put-together, with practical clothes and a retro feel, and something I can see working with any urban young man’s wardrobe.
Well done.
For more information on Bosi and Charles, and to see previous collections go here
..AKWETE.. 